In the summer of 2024, I set out on a journey that led me to a place I now call my favorite corner of the sea. It is a land where the beauty remains totally untouched, raw, and honest. That place is Ninh Thuan.
Ninh Thuan is a hidden paradise waiting just beyond the busy tourist trails
It’s funny because Ninh Thuan sits right next to the famous Nha Trang, only about 100 kilometers to the south. But as I realized quickly, these two places are worlds apart. While Nha Trang is booming with high-end resorts and crowded beaches, Ninh Thuan is still quiet, mostly known only for Vinh Hy Bay. Most of the province feels… empty. Terribly empty. But as I wandered along the Ninh Thuan coast, I realized that very emptiness was exactly why I was falling in love with it.
My first impression when I stepped into Ninh Thuan was: “Oh wow, why is it so hot and dry?” It really is the land of wind, sand, and intense heat. Everywhere you look, there are vast rocky mountains and rolling sand dunes. It’s a tough environment where not many plants can survive; instead, you see endless vineyards and herds of sheep and goats roaming the dry grass. Especially in the summer, the sun here doesn’t just shine—it scorches your skin. I learned very quickly to stock up on tons of water and never skip the sunscreen.
Getting there felt like a little mission. There is no airport in the city, so I flew into Cam Ranh. I found out the airport bus to Phan Rang had shut down, so a taxi was my only choice. Even finding a place to stay was different; you won’t find many “luxurious” skyscrapers here. I ended up in a cute little homestay in the city center that sold Mì Quảng (Quang noodles) downstairs. For only 300,000 VNĐ, I had a clean, lovely room and the joy of waking up to a delicious bowl of noodles every morning. It was simple, and it was perfect.
As a backpacker, I wanted to see everything. Most spots are about 30-40km away from the city, neatly split between the North and South. So, I dedicated one day to each direction. The one thing that stayed the same everywhere I went on the Ninh Thuan coast was the lack of people. If you time it right, you are practically the sole owner of the cliff or the dune you’re standing on. Even at “golden hour” for sunrise at Hang Rai, there were no massive crowds. That silence is what makes this place so valuable.
I started my North trip at Hang Rai. The name made me think of otters (Rái cá), and I found myself wondering if otters even live in caves. Silly thoughts aside, the place is breathtaking. There is an ancient coral reef that has solidified into a massive, impressive rock formation right next to a cliff face. Standing there, watching the sun peek over the horizon, I felt like I was at the edge of the world.
First, I visited Hang Rái, whose name made me think of otters (Rái cá), but do otters even live in caves? Never mind my silly thought! The biggest draw here is the ancient coral reef, which has solidified into a huge, impressive rock formation right next to a cliff face. This spot faces the sea, making it an ideal location for a stunning sunrise!
Just 6km further is Vinh Hy. It’s more lively, with pretty homestays and bustling eateries. I took a bay tour for a super cheap 200,000 VNĐ and had an incredible seafood lunch. But for me, the real “heart” of the trip was the Stone Park. This place is unlike any other—it doesn’t have a sandy beach, just rocks. Thousands of them, oddly shaped, stretching over 3 hectares on a rugged cliffside. It took about 15 minutes to walk from the main road to the edge of the sea. Sitting on those precarious rocks jutting out over the crashing waves, listening to the roar of the ocean, I felt my soul completely “reset.” I forgot every worry from the city.
The Stone Park: This is where my heart belongs! It literally only has… rocks. Thousands of large and small rocks, oddly shaped, stretching over 3 hectares, with an unparalleled wild beauty. Walking from the main road to the rocky beach takes about 15 minutes. You can hire a local motorbike taxi, just ask the ticket seller if you don’t see anyone waiting. Sitting on those precarious rocks jutting out into the sea, listening to the gentle roar of the waves, I truly felt my soul completely “reset” in nature, forgetting all the worries of the outside world.
A moment of tears as the stunning Ninh Thuan coast unfolds before my eyes
After the North, I headed South to find what people call Vietnam’s most beautiful coastal road: the stretch from Phan Rang – Ninh Chữ – Cà Ná. As I drove and the deep Cobalt blue ocean unfolded before my eyes, I actually teared up. It was so beautiful it hurt. Under the scorching sun, the dark, intense blue water looked even more powerful against the towering rocky cliffs.
My final stop was Mui Dinh (Dinh Cape). There were no signs, and a resort was under construction, so I had to ask locals for the way. At 6 AM, the sun was already burning, but the beach was pristine. I sat alone in a corner of the fine golden sand for hours, watching the local fishermen sail their basket boats out to the Cobalt horizon. It was just me, the wind, and the Ninh Thuan coast.
Ninh Thuan is dry and harsh, but it holds a natural, wild beauty that is so honest. It is a place that asks you to slow down and just be. It is absolutely worth dropping your plans, packing your bags, and going to “burn” with this beautiful land.
